My turn...A7 restore...

[analog addict]

Here's the paint....





and I just happen to have 4 of these, courtesy of Bowtie quite awhile ago.




I think I have some Kilz somewhere, but the weather is going to be nice again today, mid 60's, so I think I'll finish out this can of Bondo and see what I have left.

My plan is to get started on the paint, finish the insides of the horn first, then load them and test these 416 8A drivers I recently picked up. I want to listen to them for a little while, then for Mod #1, plan on getting some of that yellow spray can expanding insulation and carefully seal up/brace the vacancies on the insides of the horn flares....

[voice of the theater]

Almost ready for paint....

Got the corners pretty close. Have learned several things....

1) I'm never going to be a body man. But it seems I'm getting more mileage out of smaller batches.

2) I'm really sick of mixing, smearing, filing, sanding and repeating. Once this can is empty, I'm done, no matter where I am. That being said, all that's left is filling some of the leftover voids along the edges and corners.

Nice job--even the corners are looking good now! Seems like you're about at the "end of your rope" Alan, and I can sympathize--must have taken a lot of hours to get them looking so great.

As far as paint/primer--I'm not an expert but did work at a paint store for a while after I graduated from college and learned quite a bit there. From your quote (above), here's my suggestion as far as the best way to finish these babies without having to invest a ton more time. After you're satisfied with your patching and sanding job (looks like they're almost ready) or after your can of filler runs out and you're done sanding them, I definitely recommend using a primer sealer--not just a primer. It's not much if any more expensive, and you'll get much better results. I'd use Kilz primer sealer--foam roller is a great way to apply it (no brush marks) and no sanding will be required after you prime with Kilz. Then, apply your top coat. If the can of paint the seller gave you is a mystery unlabeled or "no-name" paint, I wouldn't use it. I'd go down to Home Depot and get a gallon of name brand paint. I think I used Behr latex (or similar quality) on mine when I had A7's many years ago. When I was done painting them, I kept the leftover paint sealed tightly in the gallon can and they touched up like a dream whenever they got "scuffed" moving them to gigs etc.--they were the P.A. speakers for my (rock) band. Personally, I never put any "clear coats" over my latex paint--it would have interfered with touch up painting down the road and I never saw the need to clear coat over high quality paint (as opposed to refinishing projects involving wood stain like an antique china cabinet etc. which I did clear coat over the wood stain).

Since it sounds like you're pretty much burnt out on this project--this is IMHO the best way to not skimp on results/get great results and not invest a ton of time. Kilz primer sealer (no sanding afterwards)--just let it dry and then a top coat of high quality paint over it (no clear coat necessary--although there are probably merits to a clear coat over paint--that's your call of course)......

EDIT--I just hit "submit quick reply" and saw you posted as I was typing. Sounds like a great "game plan" you've got if that paint that was given to you is the color you want. No need to clear coat over porch and deck satin paint IMHO. Those decals will be a great finishing touch--cool that Bowtie came through for you....

[Audio_by_Goodwill]

I've always like the Zinsser products, over the Kills. I'll admit, that my experience with Kills is next to nothing, Though.

I wouldn't touch Glidden paint........ but if you've already got it, in a pre-mixed fashion as you do, I guess it shouldn't hurt. I also sold paint, for awhile. The Glidden paint would often not come out to the right color when mixing.

I'm also a bit unsure about putting a primer under a floor paint. Typically no primer would be used on the floor. Read the can carefully. If it simply says no primer necessary, then you should be fine to use a primer. If it says specifically not to use a primer, then you could have problems....... or those instructions may only apply to a floor application. Any ideas voice of the theater?

When I did my floors, I thinned the paint for the first coat, per the instructions on the can, as a "primer".

[voice of the theater]

I've always like the Zinsser products, over the Kills. I'll admit, that my experience with Kills is next to nothing, Though.

I wouldn't touch Glidden paint........ but if you've already got it, in a pre-mixed fashion as you do, I guess it shouldn't hurt. I also sold paint, for awhile. The Glidden paint would often not come out to the right color when mixing.

I'm also a bit unsure about putting a primer under a floor paint. Typically no primer would be used on the floor. Read the can carefully. If it simply says no primer necessary, then you should be fine to use a primer. If it says specifically not to use a primer, then you could have problems....... or those instructions may only apply to a floor application. Any ideas voice of the theater?

When I did my floors, I thinned the paint for the first coat, per the instructions on the can, as a "primer".

Yes, back in my paint can slinging days, we informed customers in most cases not to prime their floors. The idea was that Floor and Deck paint is a more durable coating than most paints, and since the floor will be subjected to heavy wear and tear (i.e. walking on it over and over), two coats of floor and deck paint (first coat thinned) are more durable than a coat of primer and a coat of floor and deck paint. However, in this case presumably AA won't be walking on his cabinets and a good primer sealer is essential to adhere, cover, and seal the "multitude of sins" that need to be covered--old paint, bare wood, wood filler, etc. so that he ends up with a nice uniform look when he's done with his top coat.

As far as Zinsser goes, yes, I always recommended Zinsser BIN for the toughest stains -- fire and smoke damage, water stains etc. Their best product is actually a pigmented shellac based primer sealer (BIN) and I used it myself once to cover water stains in a ceiling after putting on a new roof on my (old) house. It is great for the toughest stains, however, IMHO it is nasty stuff to work with and the fumes from it will do a number on you even when working with it outside so I don't plan on using it again unless I'm dealing with HEAVY smoke damage etc.--and even then , just maybe.....

Kilz does a great job and I prefer it by far unless covering a really tough stain (smoke/soot) but they both do a great job so choose your poison.....

BTW, for those of you out there wondering, contrary to popular opinion, John Travolta (Saturday Night Fever) did not make it COOL to sell paint for a living!

[Audio_by_Goodwill]

......... and since the floor will be subjected to heavy wear and tear (i.e. walking on it over and over), two coats of floor and deck paint (first coat thinned) are more durable than a coat of primer and a coat of floor and deck paint. However, in this case presumably AA won't be walking on his cabinets and a good primer sealer is essential to adhere, cover, and seal the "multitude of sins" that need to be covered--old paint, bare wood, wood filler, etc. so that he ends up with a nice uniform look when he's done with his top coat.

Well my thought was one of the floor paint possibly not bonding to the primer properly, since it's presumably designed to be not used with primer.

As far as Zinsser goes, yes, I always recommended Zinsser BIN for the toughest stains -- fire and smoke damage, water stains etc. Their best product is actually a pigmented shellac based primer sealer (BIN) and I used it myself once to cover water stains in a ceiling after putting on a new roof on my (old) house. It is great for the toughest stains, however, IMHO it is nasty stuff to work with and the fumes from it will do a number on you even when working with it outside so I don't plan on using it again unless I'm dealing with HEAVY smoke damage etc.--and even then , just maybe.....

Zinsser has many more products than the shellac based BIN. They've got both oil an latex products. Even a low oder oil.
I used the BIN on some paneling and already painted basement wall...... I didn't think the smell was too bad. The solvent is just alcohol. It's been awhile, Though, so maybe it was stronger than I am recalling. Cleanup is a lot easier with shellac than oil........ shellac can be cleaned with ammonia making it comparable to latex.

[gearfreak]

Funny. I use that exact color on the floor. Works pretty well on the floor ime.

Interestingly, where it got on the wall, it appears darker. Somewhere between the two shades, is that of my 828 cabs.
So maybe a great choice.

Here's the (not freshly painted, and a bit dirty) floor, with the original port board from the 828. * though no guarantees on color accuracy from the camera, seems to have come out a little green. The color balance has been funny on it lately.

[Audio_by_Goodwill]

Funny. I use that exact color on the floor. Works pretty well on the floor ime.

Interestingly, where it got on the wall, it appears darker. Somewhere between the two shades, is that of my 828 cabs.
So maybe a great choice.

Here's the (not freshly painted, and a bit dirty) floor, with the original port board from the 828. * though no guarantees on color accuracy from the camera, seems to have come out a little green. The color balance has been funny on it lately.

Why does it look so textured? How was it painted?

[voice of the theater]

Well my thought was one of the floor paint possibly not bonding to the primer properly, since it's presumably designed to be not used with primer.



Zinsser has many more products than the shellac based BIN. They've got both oil an latex products. Even a low oder oil.
I used the BIN on some paneling and already painted basement wall...... I didn't think the smell was too bad. The solvent is just alcohol. It's been awhile, Though, so maybe it was stronger than I am recalling. Cleanup is a lot easier with shellac than oil........ shellac can be cleaned with ammonia making it comparable to latex.

The pigmented shellac (BIN) is Zinsser's "best" working primer/sealer. I just didn't like working with it--the consistency and leveling were acceptable--it was mainly the fumes. Like Kilz, I'm aware that they make water based and oil products as well. I've tried both Kilz and Zinsser water based primer sealers and didn't think either of them worked very well. Neither was good at covering tough stains which is the real test of a good primer sealer. The Zinsser oil based primer sealer is probably fine--hopefully almost as good working as their pigmented shellac? I haven't ever used it, but I really like the Kilz oil based primer sealer. Either oil based product (or the pigmented shellac) should be fine. As I said--choose your poison. I agree cleanup with the oil is no fun however. Maybe I'm sensitive to fumes as I don't really like working with ammonia in a confined space either so cleaning up BIN with ammonia isn't fun for me either.....

BTW, it's not that most porch and deck enamels have a formula that won't stick to a surface that has primer on it. Most brands recommend two coats (first thinned) for durability purposes on floors. That speaker cabinet surface really needs a high quality primer sealer IMHO.....

[Altec Best]

I wouldn't touch Glidden paint........

+1 ,

Alan the last time and for the very last time I used Glidden paint I coated a wall with 4 coats of paint and it still didn't cover the wall underneath.I then bought Benjamin Moore and have been using that ever since.Usually covers in 1 coat. YMMV

[VolvoHeretic]

Any and everything will stick better to primer than base material and evens out all of the different surface differences, otherwise you will wind up with really smooth spots, and others less so that you can see. You will need at least two coats of top coat to get uniform coverage. I would also buy a little mini foam roller to get into the inside horn corners, and a few foam pads for touch-up. Good idea on gently radiusing/ rounding out the sharp edges. Satin has a nice texture with a nice gentle sheen.